…  June 24, 2005 …

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« « In This Issue » »

  • D.C. Cloak & Dagger Fare . . .
  • Tortas Head North . . .
  • Miami Spice & Campo Viejo ...
  • Chef Allen's Tropical Tutorial . . .
  • DiningChannel Special Promos . . .
  • Newcomer: New San Telmo . . .
  • Epicurean Blueprint: Nixon Meatloaf
  • Big Chill Treats: Cow Tracks, Wow Now Brownie Cow & Custard  
  • Hot, Cool & Now Products . . .


That '70s Show: Watergate Still Spawns Thirst, Appetites . . .

What Did You Know & When Did You Know It?: Or has it yet to dawn? A third-rate burglary gone sour more than 30 years ago may seem a mite stale. Yet on this very anniversary week of the famed June 23 smoking-gun tape, reeking of Oval Office collusion (and more recently stoked by revelations identifying a retired FBI honcho as the legendary Deep Throat), the saga of Watergate continues to whet appetites.

In Washington, D.C. at the corner of M and 22nd streets, The Ritz-Carlton Lobby Bar slakes thirst with its Deep Throat cocktail, co-created by Ian McPhee, assistant food and beverage director, and former colleague Colleen Evans, a PR pro. Ingredients for The Ritz-Carlton's Deep Throat potion include Creme de Cocao, vodka and cream, with a little secret in the mix -- A Hershey's chocolate kiss. McPhee tells DiningGuide newsletter that "you don't see it until you're halfway through the drink -- or until you get to the bottom of it ... because at The Ritz-Carlton, we don't kiss and tell."  

Watergate fare is far meatier at Arlington's Key Bridge Marriott, where Tom Sears, director of restaurants, tells DGnewsletter that “our guests and staff have been having fun with all this renewed interest in the Watergate era.”  Scandal buffs may recall that in April, 1972 (before the famed June 17 break-in), White House aide Alexander Butterfield used the Key Bridge Marriott parking lot to hand off $350,000 in cash – in $50 and $100 bills from a Nixon campaign “reserve fund”  -- to Leonard Lilly, who was to make deliveries upon direction. Washington Post reporter Bob Woodward later met Deep Throat at an underground garage (believed the one next door) to hash over progress in digging up the dirt. 

To that end, the Key Bridge Marriott’s casual Allie's American Grille has unveiled its timely Top Secret menu for lunch and dinner: Featured are both Presidential Meatloaf ($12.95), from Pat Nixon’s own recipe (a favorite of the disgraced president), served with mashed potatoes and veggies, and the Cloak & Dagger ($9.75), a sandwich of corned beef and Swiss cheese on grilled rye, with fries and slaw. The meatloaf recipe (Epicurean Blueprint Below) was once so popular that it was printed on White House stationery for mailing on request, and Marriott's Sears reports that Executive Chef Todd Schofield has "taken great care to ensure we are following the recipe as Mrs. Nixon intended.”

From South of the Border: It's High Time for Tortas . . .

Move Over Italian Paninis and Vietnamese Banh Mi: Trendspotters at Nation’s Restaurant News report restaurateurs and chefs all over are going more global for sandwiches, with the torta – an unfussy Mexican street staple -- making inroads across America. With ingredients stuffed between sliced roll halves, tortas hold almost any combo, from lettuce and tomato to pork marinated in a chile paste and lime rub. Zocalo, in New York’s Grand Central Terminal dining concourse, now sells between 80 and 100 tortas daily, and its gm, Marco Andrade, tells NRN that tortas are “as popular in Mexico as hamburgers are here.” Oona Settembre, Dallas-based corporate chef for Dave & Buster’s, predicts we'll see "a lot of tortas pop up on menus simply because of the ‘wow’ factor.” No matter what the filling, Mexican eateries lean toward using either a bolillo (a soft oval with crusty exterior) or a telera (larger, rounder with a midline crease or two). Kelly Mullarney, corporate chef for Fransmart, owner of Tacuba Cantina Mexicana, tells NRN that the roll needs enough texture to hold up, be soft enough to bite, and large enough to “encapsulate all of the ingredients." After spreading with butter or mayo and toasting on a griddle, one half often gets a coating of refried beans, the other some mashed avocado and a dollop of Mexican sour cream before grilling. California chain La Torta Mexican Deli touts 35 torta varieties including the Hawaiiana, filled with grilled chicken, ham, grilled onions and bell peppers, mozzarella and pineapple. Atlanta’s Pangaea touts three variations on teleras – pork, grilled chicken, and braised beef. Rosa Mexicano, in New York, Washington, D.C., and soon in Atlanta, serves lunch tortas, including a roasted chicken, ham, bacon and mild Chihuahua cheese on ciabatta or a Kaiser roll. Plated with crispy sweet potato fries, it sells for $11.50. Tacuba Cantina Mexicana in Alexandria, Va., also does lunch tortas — a Cubana, a chicken/chorizo torta, and others filled with stewed chicken tinga, beef barbacoa or pork carnitas. Most popular: The chicken/chorizo, for $7.25. All are served with  yucca fries.

So Very, Very  $$$ Nice, All That Miami Spice . . .

Campo Viejo Joins Miami Spice: For the fourth consecutive year, Miami Spice Restaurant Month tantalizes prospective diners in August (and September), this time with a new presenting sponsor, Campo Viejo Rioja Wines, owned by Allied Domecq Wines USA.  “We’re thrilled that Campo Viejo has signed on,” says William Talbert, top man at the Greater Miami Convention & Visitors Bureau. Kate McManus, Campo Viejo senior marketing manager, adds “like Miami, Spanish wines are 'en fuego'!  It makes perfect sense for Campo Viejo to support the efforts of Miami's top chefs and restaurants through Miami Spice." The campaign stars special $20.05 lunches and three-course $30.05 dinners, sans tax and tip, at 50 top restaurants. Participating culinary hotspots include the Dining Channel’s Chef Allen’s, and dozens of others including Atrio at the new Conrad Miami, 1200 at the Biltmore, A Fish Called Avalon,  Bal HarbourBistro, Emeril’s Miami Beach, Purple Dolphin, Red Fish Grill, The River Oyster Bar, Shula’s Steak House, and Smith & Wollensky. And to fight hunger with Miami Spice, American Express is forking out 10 cents to United Way for each American Express Card purchase. For details, visit Miami Spice. Campo Viejo wines include a vintage dated Crianza, (about $9.99); a Reserva (about $12.99) and Gran Reserva (about $24.99). For info, visit: Campo Viejo.                

Chef Allen's Tropical Mediterranean Tutorial . . .

Let Allen Susser Show You How: Starting today and running Thursdays through July 14 are Chef Allen Susser’s Tropical Mediterranean Cooking Classes at his Dining Channel restaurant, Chef Allen’s, in Aventura, Florida. Here’s opportunity to learn techniques influenced from the south of France, Spain and Italy. Classes start at 10 a.m. on June 30 (Costa Brava with Roasted Striped Bass), July 7 (Amalfi Coast with Pan Roasted Diver Sea Scallops), and July 14 (Morocco with Charmoula Grilled Squid), followed by lunch at noon. Price: $90 per session, limited to no more than 12 per class. To book, call Nicole at (305) 935-2900, ext.12, or e-mail Nicole@chefallens.com  

Starry, Starry Summer Nights at Mark's . . .

Prix Fixe on South Beach & Las Olas: Relief from summer doldrums comes with Mark’s Summer Nights menu at two of Chef Mark Militello’s award-winning outposts. Through August at Mark’s South Beach on Miami Beach and Mark’s Las Olas in Fort Lauderdale, the prix fixe menu, changing weekly, features four courses at $40 per person, sans tax and gratuity. Hours are 7 to 11 p.m. each evening except Saturdays. Selected wines by the glass are priced at a happy-hour-inspiring $4. Once seated, you’ll encounter an amuse bouche, followed by appetizer, main course and dessert. To reserve, call Mark’s Las Olas, (954) 463-1000, or Mark’s South Beach, (305) 604-9050  


DiningChannel Special Promos . . .

The DiningChannel.com's value-packed certificates and coupons, downloaded over the Internet, are a great incentive to sample new or unfamiliar restaurants, or to renew acquaintance with former favorites. Check out these South Florida restaurants, each with DiningChannel incentives. Daily and weekly DiningChannel specials provide notable savings:

  • Andre's Steakhouse, where steak is king on Fort Lauderdale's Commercial Boulevard, invites you to click here for a food certificate worth $25 for only $8.
  • Ristorante Del Sole, an Italian enclave in Pompano Beach, invites you to click here for a certificate entitling you to $20 worth of food for only $5.
  • Solo on the Bay, at Greater Miami's Haulover Park and Marina, invites you to click here for a meal certificate worth $20 for only $5.
  • Mario the Baker To-Go, serving pizza and Italian delights on West Dixie Highway in Miami, invites you to click here for $20 worth of food for only $5.
  • Baja Cafe Dos, in Deerfield Beach, says "don't drink the water... drink the margaritas." To make out like a bandit on food, click here for a meal certificate worth $10 for only $4.

For special promotions, complimentary value coupons and more in other cities, follow us to DiningChannel.com, provided by MetroGuide.com, offering extensive city information geared to both visitors and residents since 1996.


Newcomer Restaurant ... New San Telmo Argentinean Steakhouse

Buenos Aires Comes to Miami: With a name capturing it all, New San Telmo Argentinean Steakhouse & Italian Pasta brings heaping portions of South American-style culinary excellence to Miami. San Telmo, of course, is the historic cobblestone street neighborhood near downtown Buenos Aires, birthplace of the sultry tango. Miami’s outpost on Sunny Isles now garners bullish raves from regulars and first-timers alike. As for New San Telmo's aura, think Argentine authenticity, with requisite touches of meaty sizzle. Owner Mario Szwarc suggests steaks or pasta, and the Palm Hearts with Pink Sauce. For special occasions, inquire about New San Telmo's paella. Click here for details.

Epicurean Blueprint: First Lady Pat Nixon's Meatloaf . . .

Grist for the Mill: Now served at the Key Bridge Marriott, this meatloaf prepared from Pat Nixon's recipe and published in Chef Henry Haller’s “White House Family Cookbook,” has reaped kudos over the years, along with the occasional knock. Some cooks recommend boosting the herb quotient. Others happily report the meatloaf holds together well despite the call for an entire cup of milk. 

Given the Nixon administration's Imperial Presidency legacy, some seasoned foodies have snickered over the use of tomato puree instead of ketchup, suggesting that the latter would have been too bourgeois for the Nixon White House. Few would dispute, however, that this meatloaf must have provided comfort when needed most during the Nixon administration's memorable final days. 

Pat Nixon's Meatloaf 

2 Tablespoons butter
1 Cup finely chopped onions
2 Garlic cloves, minced
3 Slices white bead
1 Cup milk
2 Pounds lean ground beef
2 Eggs, lightly beaten
1 Teaspoon salt
Ground black pepper, to taste
1 Tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
1/2 Teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 Teaspoon dried marjoram
2 Tablespoons tomato puree
2 Tablespoons bread crumbs

Grease a 13-by-9-inch baking pan. Melt butter in a saute pan, add garlic and saute until just golden -- do not brown. Let cool.

Dice bread and soak it in milk. In a large mixing bowl, mix ground beef by hand with sauteed onions and garlic and bread pieces. Add eggs, salt, pepper, parsley, thyme and marjoram and mix by hand in a circular motion.

Turn this mixture into the prepared baking pan and pat into a loaf shape, leaving at least one inch of space around the edges to allow fat to run off. Brush the top with the tomato puree and sprinkle with bread crumbs. Refrigerate for 1 hour to allow the flavors to penetrate and to firm up the loaf.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Bake meatloaf on lower shelf of oven for 1 hour, or until meat is cooked through. Pour off accumulated fat several times while baking and after meat is fully cooked. Let stand on wire rack for five minutes before slicing. Makes 6 servings.

A Worthy Hot Summer Quote . . .

My advice to you is not to inquire why or whither, but just enjoy your ice cream while it's on your plate — that's my philosophy.”

   Thornton Wilder, playwright, novelist, and American icon

Savory Big Chill Treats . . . 

From Chaney's Big Red Barn: Premium ice cream is only for starters at Chaney's Dairy Barn in Bowling Green, Kentucky, home of the Corvette Museum. Chaney's also serves homemade sandwiches, soups, cakes and pies, plus Kentucky-grown take-out comestibles. Tours showcase the Chaney farm, purchased in 1888. Dairy operations started in 1940 with acquisition of two registered Jerseys -- Althea and Topsy -- known worldwide among Jersey breeders. In fact, James Chaney Sr. earned Master Breeder recognition at the American Jersey Cattle Association’s annual meeting a couple of years ago. And cowabunga, if Chaney's ice cream doesn’t come in flavors like Cow Tracks, Wow Now Brownie Cow and Smashed Cherry Althea. This summer, Chaney’s presents Ice Cream & A Moovie, free starting at dusk. For details, call (270) 843-5567.

Custard with a History: Since 1902, Abbott’s Frozen Custardhas been a leader in subzero ecstasy. Back in the ‘20s, folks treated themselves to Abbott’s at Charlotte Beach on Lake Ontario. Over time, Abbott’s opened franchises all over Rochester, Syracuse and New York’s Finger Lakes region, operating on the driving principle of making the best frozen custard on earth. Now Abbott's has hit the shores of Vero Beach, Florida at both 3101 Ocean Drive and 4140 20th Street. Gourmet and classic sundaes include Chocolate Lover's Paradise and Old Fashioned Strawberry Shortcake. For details, call (772) 567-7338.    

From The Wine Buyer: White Burgundies are in delightful summer supply:

  • Cave L’Aurance Pouilly Fuisse 2003, around $16. Wine Buyer calls it a "lovely wine with aromas of lemon rind and mineral with a delicious yet subtle palate showing citrus flavors with just a delicate touch of oak. Nice clean finish."
  • Jean Pascal Puligny Montrachet Les Enseigneres 2002, around $30. Wine Buyer says it "has inviting aromas of minerals and flowers that leap from the glass. It is Medium bodied with flavors of spiced apple, mineral and lemon with a full fleshy finish."
  • Chateau de Maligny Chablis Vieilles Vignes 2003, around $15. Wine Buyer allows that the "warm 2003 made nicely ripe, soft whites in Chablis. Vibrant flavors of lemons, apples and minerals with a delicate, yet long finish." Nothing like a long finish, DiningGuide newsletter always says. Questions? Call The Wine Buyer at (973) 872-0275.

Restaurant Closures

It's an on-going challenge to keep DiningGuide up-to-date. Let us know about closures in your city by e-mailing office@metroguide.com with pertinent details, including whether another restaurant has opened or is anticipated to open at that location. We'll check it out and share your news with readers.


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